Panerai has been consistently making its own movements for more than 10 years now. One of the most surprising calibres – apart from the outstanding P.2005/MR – is the P.4000 released two years ago. This self-winding movement comes with an off-centred micro-rotor, a component used almost exclusively to reduce overall height. The micro-rotor allows for reduced movement height because it is set into the movement instead of sitting on top of it. With a thickness of only 3.95mm, it is not quite the thinnest on the market, but it is more than capable of allowing Panerai to produce more slender timepieces, which begs the question: Why is Panerai making slender timepieces?
The ample proportions of the Luminor, Panerai’s undisputed flagship, are a source of pride and pleasure for collectors. Indeed, many are especially proud to wear the chunky 47mm models. There, however, remains a segment of watch aficionados who relish a Luminor that is not only stylistically accurate but also extra elegant. It is for these individuals that the new Luminor Due is created.
Up to 40 per cent slimmer than some Luminors, the Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic stands at just 10.7mm in height. Again, this does not make it the thinnest watch on the market, but compared to the average Luminor or Luminor 1950, the difference in thickness simply cannot be overlooked.
There are two variations of the Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic: PAM674 in steel and PAM675 in red gold. Both are fully polished, further emphasising the elegant notes of the watch, and come with dials finished with a satiné soleil treatment, in black for the steel piece and anthracite grey for the red gold. The sandwich construction allows Super-LumiNova to peek through the stencilled indexes and numerals. Apart from a small seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock, the dial keeps clutter to a minimal – just the way Panerai aficionados like it.
Further distinguishing PAM674 from PAM675 is the movement decoration. Through the sapphire crystal case back, it is immediately apparent that the red gold piece contains a beautiful partially skeletonised movement, as well as an oscillating weight in 22K red gold decorated with a traditional clous de Paris pattern. On the other hand, PAM674 has the regular P.4000 with industrial-style finishing.
Named Luminor Due because it is perceived as “Part Two” of the Luminor story, these watches are best appreciated on the wrist, as this is where their unique allure truly becomes tangible.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Movement: Self-winding Calibre P.4000 or P.4000/10
Power Reserve: 72 hour
Case: 316L steel or red gold;
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Black alligator leather with steel or red gold pin buckle
This article was first published in World of Watches.